On Day 2 of our Pekanbaru – Bukittinggi – Padang epic journey, we woke up to the chill air of Bukittinggi. As our itinerary was rather ambitious for the nick of time we planned to spend during the trip, we were hurried by our driver cum timekeeper, Mas Imam to quickly have breakfast and start our city tour around Bukittinggi. Imran Hotel served average tasting fried rice for breakfast.
Sianok Canyon
Our first destination of the day is Panorama Ngarai Sianok. We were taken to Panorama Park which is an entry point to Panorama and also the Lobang Jepang (Japanese Caves). Sianok Canyon is a steep canyon that offers one of the most breathtaking views in West Sumatera. Sianok Canyon has two almost vertical walls falling to a flat bottom where a river flows in between the walls. Its height is about 100 to 120 meters and the canyon itself is 15km long. The gorge separate the towns of Bukittinggi and Kota Gadang, home of silversmiths who produce the finese filigree ornaments.
From the Panorama Park, we could see the Great Wall of Koto Gadang; it must have been inspired by the Great Wall of China. Those seeking an adventure may walk down the canyon through the Great Wall of Koto Gadang. One of the most iconic canyon is known as Tabing Takuruang.If I were to go to Bukittinggi again, I will make sure I do the trekking to Tabiang Takuruang.
We walked further down the street which was lined by souvenir shops to go to the observatory deck where we could enjoy the view of paddy fields with the background of the Sianok Canyon. I bought myself a beautiful painting of typical West Sumatera view of Rumah Gadang in the middle of paddy fields and streaming river. It was relatively cheap as I only paid for IDR150,000.00 for arm length size of painting.
Entrance fee for Panorama Park is IDR 5,000.00 per person. For parking, it’s IDR2,000.00.
Lobang Jepang
Lobang Jepang or Goa Jepang is a historical site as the caves had been used by the Japanese as their fortress during the Japanese Inavasion in West Sumatera between 1942 to 1945. As we had already paid the entrance fee, we could enter the Lobang Jepang for free. However, there was a cave guide that would persuade you to use his services for certain amount of charges in the pretext that they are many junctions and you would easily get lost.
So when the guide persuaded us to use his services, he said he would charge 20. IDR20,000 is affordable enough to be paid for the three of us. As Lobang Jepang has 3 entrances, we were told we would exit using a different entrance that is near Jalan Ngarai Sianok. So Mas Imam had to drive there and wait for us.
We descended 132 steps to reach the flat ground of the tunnel. The length of the tunnel is estimated at 1.5km, but only half the length is open for public visitation. There are ammunition room, meeting room, detention room, kitchen, spying hole and prison. I had goosebumps when we were brought to the hole where the demised prisoners are kept and disposed of.
According to the guide, the locals did not know the existence of the tunnel until it was discovered many years after the Japanese fled Indonesia. It was also said that the Japanese ammunition found in the tunnel was used by the locals to fight for independence.
And when we reached the exit, I found it was pretty easy to manoeuvre our way in tunnel even without the help of the guide. And apparently the charges were not IDR20,000.00 as we initially thought, it was MYR20 which is equivalent to IDR70,000.00. Although we felt slightly cheated on the price, the expanation given by the guide was helpful.
Jam Gadang
Jam Gadang or the Great Clock is a must visit place in Bukittinggi. It is the main landmark of Bukittingg. It was built by Dutch with Bagonjong roof on the top of the tower. Located at the centre of the town square, Jam Gadang is surrounded by stalls selling food and souvenirs. One could also enjoy the view of the Mount Singgalang and Mount Marapi. There are also house carriages which are readily available.
Taman Marga Satwa Haiwan & Jembatan Limpapeh & Fort de Kock
We didn’t really want to go to the Setwa Haiwan which is hardly a zoo. But we were informed that we had to enter the Taman Setwa Haiwan Bukittinggi to obtain access to Jembatan Limpapeh and Fort de Kock. Surprisingly, when we entered Taman Setwa Haiwan Bukittinggi, we saw our first close-up rumah Gadang, Rumah Gadang Baanjuang.
Rumah Gadang Baanjuang is a traditional Minangkabau house which was built by Controleur Mr. Mandelaar. The house is used as a museum of Minangkabau culture and history. It also houses a collection of strange animals. I think it’s quite contrary to the objective of having a zoo to protect animals when you also have a preserved collection of rare animals. What more when the museum is within the area of the zoo. At the time of visitation (Oct 2014), Rumah Gadang Adat nan Baanjuang was undergoing a renovation. Thus, we did not manage to pay a visit and see the collection of strange animals with our own eyes.
The Limpapeh bridge is a bridge over Ahmad Yani street which connects the Bukittinggi zoo with the Fort de Kock. It is a puzzle why the Limpapeh bridge is considered a tourist attraction in Bukittinggi.
Fort de Kock is not so much of a fort but a a little outpost tower surrounded by cannons. It is located on top of a hill. We were not impressed by how little “the fort” was. I was attracted to visit this place in the first place because of its unique name and I thought it would be of significance like Fort Rotterdam of Makassar.
Nasi Kapau Lunch
Tired from our city tour, Mas Imam marched down the wet market where dried fishes and karupuk (snacks) are being sold.
Not long after, we reached a row of food stalls selling Nasi Kapau, a Minang steamed rice topped with various choices of dishes originated from Nagari Kapau, Bukittinggi. We went to the second stall, Nasi Kapau Ni Lis. As we seated comfortably, on our eye level, there were stages and rows of large bowls, places and saucepans filled with various dishes. A kobokan, a bowl of tap water with a slice of lime was already on the table in order to wash our hands before and after eating. We took turn to get our plates of nasi kapau.
The waiter prepared steaming hot rice on the plate with gulai usus, boiled cassava leaf and sambal condiment. Then we chose our dishes which will be put on the plate using long serving spoon or senduk. The dishes offered were rendang, kalio, balado and gulai. Gulai is a watery dish which is also main course for rice in Malaysia. The difference is in Sumatera, there are variety of gulai of many parts of poultry product which are normally not served in Malaysia. For example, cow internal organs, cow foot tendons, cow tripes, cow intestines filled with eggs and tofu, cow spleen, cow liver, cow brain, cow bone marrow, cow fat and the list goes on. Those are meant for those with culinary adventure.
(to be continued in Part 2)