Cevapi : The national food of Sarajevo
Cevapi is a traditional grilled dish of minced meat, usually made of skinless sausage. It is usuallly served in 5-10 pieces on a plate with flatbread, yogurt, feta cheese, minced red pepper and salt. Some restaurants charge according to the quality of meat ie per 100gm. Some would just provide a standard price of either 3KM, 6KM or 10KM.
Trznica : Paradise for Meat and Dairy Products
From the outside, its interior looks like an impressive Neo-renaisance style government building. But it is a real covered markets selling all kinds of dried meats, eggs, milk, cheeses and kajmak.I went there on recommendation of our guide from Sarajevo Funky Tour. His instruction was to find the second last shop on the right side. I was made to understand that the smoked beef is one of the best in the world.
According to Skender, our guide, if a local Bosnian were to give a souvenir to his guests, the premium souvenir as any proud Bosnian would be obliged to give is the smoked beef. He also mentioned of the seasonal wind used to dry the meats that made the taste special.
So I found the stall, second last on the right as I entered Trznica. The owner of the stall was Babic Almir I Samija. I was spoilt with many selections of stelja (lamb), jaretina (goat’s meat), sudzuk (spicy beef sausage). With fat or less fat, everything you ask for. I bought quite a handful stock of smoked beef and sudzuk for our next league of travel to Plitvice Lake where halal food was difficult to find.
Sarajevo is your last destination, you might wish to shop for the dried meats or smoked meats as souvenirs. You won’t regret it! I have never tasted smoked beef as good as the ones sold by Babic Almir. And it’s halal!
Taslihan
Taslihan refers to inn made of stone. Its original name was Gazi Husrev Bey’s caravanserai. It had seen glorious days when it was the largest facilities of its kind in the region. The accommodation in Taslihan was free for all and could receive up to 90 guests at a time. However, Taslihan was on fire on numerous times. The last remnants of Taslihan were removed in 1912 except for the walls next to the Bezistan. The Taslihan walls are now being conserved by the next door lavish hotel named Europe Hotel.
City Hall
Walking north from the Sebilj, we arrived at row of shops selling classical merchandise from copper plates to badges to china porcelain. Those shops were strewn with bullet riddles. The searing heat of summer sun pricked my skin as I marched on the quiet street that led me to the City Hall, a Moorish style building constructed during the Austro-Hungarian Period.
A shop selling clay pots next to the City Hall.
Moorish style City Hall is very beautiful especially when it strikes contrast against the blue sky.
Do Not Forget, Remember and Warn!
Inat Kuca (House of Spite)
Another interesting fact about City Hall was built with no less challenges than Bosnian stubborness. The Austro Hungarian empire wanted to build a building never seen before in Sarajevo at the right side of the Miljacka river. But the intended location was owned by an old man called Benderija, who did not want to demolish his house for any reason. After long negotiations, Benderija gave up his property on the condition that they were to give him a bag of golden coins and to move his house brick by brick to the side of the river. Having no other option, the Austro Hungarian abided by his conditions.
Benderija’s house is now know as “Inat Kuca” or the House of Spite. It is located at the opposite side of the river Miljacka. It symbolizes Bosnian stubborness, defiance and perseverance. No wonder Sarajevo survived 4 years of seige!
Miljacka River – clean and clear.
Passing Inat Kuca on the right side is Alifakovac Street which was a hilly endurance walk. Alifakovac is the eastern quarter of old Sarajevo. It was named after Ali Faqih, a lawyer and scholar from Sarajevo who lived during the second half of the 15th century.
Alifakovac Cemetery
When I reached to the top of the street Veliki Alifakovac, we accidentally arrived at one of the oldest cemeteries with 300 tombs in Sarajevo. I had a goosebump but the fear of huge wild dog overcame the fear of ghostly presence in cemeteries. At one point, I briskly moved to old men hanging out in the cemetery. The cemetery is also called musafir cemetery because the visitors who died in Sarajevo were buried in Alifakovac Cemetery.
The view from on top of Alifakovac Cemetery is stunning!
Yellow Bastion
I descended from Alifakovac Cemetery to go to the best spot for sunset in Sarajevo before catching the overnight bus to Zagreb. As we crossed the bridge near Inat Kuca, we turned right following the sign to the Yellow Bastion. 10 minutes walk from the bridge, the direction to Yellow Bastion was nowhere in sight. Mira and I stopped a local woman who did not speak English.
After describing the place where we wanted to go and she called a man who could speak English, she ushered us to Kovaci cemetery. To go to Yellow Bastion, you can either walk or take a taxi. The walk was uphill and for less fit person like yours truly, be prepared to suffer. It was actually a race against time as we wanted to watch the sunset on time and get back to our hostel and onwards to bus station.
The Yellow Bastion is located on Jekovac above the Kovaci cemetery. A splendid view of Sarajevo is worth every tiny drop of sweat shed. There was a cafe overlooking the city where one could enjoy Bosniak coffee or a cup of rose tea. You must try the homemade rose tea. If not for the strict budget I had, it would be my pleasure to down atleast 3 bottles of the rose tea. From the bastion, a cannon will be fired during Ramadan to indicate the time to break the fast. How interesting.
So long, Sarajevo. I shall visit you again. There’s a lot more to see in Sarajevo. I was in the nick of time as I only estimated 4 days 3 nights for Sarajevo as well as outbound trips.
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Beautiful place