Apart from the traditional wet markets, floating markets are the most authentic places to visit. After being spoiled by the floating markets in Kashmir, I have been longing for another floating market trip. Then, I came across Lok Baintan Floating Market in Banjarmasin, South Kalimantan. As I was part of the Wonderful Indonesia’s Trip of Wonders exploring different parts of Indonesia, I decided to extend my stay and visited Banjarmasin.
Travelling to Banjarmasin from Jakarta
I took the Lion Air’s JT-328 flight to Syamsuddin Nor Airport, Banjarmasin from Jakarta. It was my first time using Traveloka for flight booking. It was easy and user-friendly. My flight was delayed for 1.5 hours, so I arrived at Syamsuddin Nor Airport almost at midnight. While waiting for the flight, I met a da’ei from Banjarbaru, who saw to my needs until I took the taxi to Banjarmasin. He informed him that he had direct relatives in Kelantan.
Almost immediately, I remembered a minority group who identified themselves as “Orang Banjar” in Malaysia. They are not as common as the “Orang Jawa”, but they exist in Malaysia. Do you know Banjar people’s origin is Banjarmasin? They migrated to Malaysia during the civil wars in Banjarmasin and built settlements in Parit Buntar, Bagan Serai, Sungai Manik, Batu Pahat, Pontian, Mersing, Chuah, Sabak Bernam, Sungai Besar and Tanjong Karang.
Weeks before my arrival in Banjarmasin, I contacted few people from Banjarmasin Traveller and they responded with ideas and tips and even offered to find a place to stay for me. I was supposed to stay with a couchsurfer, named Ichii, but she had to fly to Japan the next morning. I did not want to bother her so much, so she booked me a room at Mira Inn. The coupon taxi from the airport cost me IDR125,000 and the room were IDR150,000. The room was basic and could be a tad bit scary for a solo woman traveller because of the distance to the room. My room was at the other end of the building.
Cruising Martapura River to Lok Baintan Floating Market
Despite arriving so late at night, I promised Ichii to meet her at the guesthouse lobby at 5.30am because Lok Baintan floating market starts as early as 6.30am in the morning and the boats start leaving the market as early as 7am. The boatman was already waiting for us at the jetty known as Dermaga Siring as Ichii had made the booking the day before. Since the departure is very early in the morning, it is advisable that you have your boat booked one day before departure.
At first, we spoke less on the boat as misty river surrounded by water villages unfolded before us. Deep inside, I fought hard to stay awake because the breeze almost lullabied me to sleep. From time to time our boat, known as klotok overtook wooden non-motorized boat known to the locals as jukung. Ichiii pointed out the traditional house for the Banjar ethnic, rumah lanting, a raft of huge tree trunks tied together with a house above the raft with uneven semi heptagon roof. Whenever the boats pass by the the rumah lanting, the house raft would tilt to the current movement.
Lok Baintan Floating Market
40 minutes went by, I marvelled at the sun peeking over the horizon. Then, I started to see women paddling the klotok full of organic products for sale.
Scenic village view on the way to Lok Baintan Floating Market.
The smile indicates the simple yet happy life.
While waiting for customers, the ladies keep up with one another’s life.
Lok Baintan Floating Market is the most vibrant and colourful floating market I have seen so far.
Interestingly, the women dominate the floating market business as they paddled their farm products and sold them at a wholesale price. According to Ichii, the purchase would be sold at local markets in the city.
The products on sale were seasonal fruits such as jeruk (mandarin oranges), banana, food, fishes, vegetable, eggs and local cuisine.
There was even one selling clothes.
The common headgear seen in the floating market is the round woven palm leaves hat.
I hope the tradition is not dying as I hardly see any younger generation. Ichii told me the youngsters would eventually pick up the tradition when they reach 40+.
Definitely one of the most photogenic destinations all over Indonesia.
I find the people of Banjarmasin genuine. For example, the woman from whom I bought Grontol/Jagung Urap from.
*Grontol/Jagung Urap is a sweet dessert made of the boiled kernel of sweet corn, shredded coconut, salt and sugar. It is known as Khao Pod Kluk in Thailand, Binatog in the Philippines and my (Malaysian) family calls it jagung kelapa.
The fresh vegetables.
Caught this auntie mending her sarong.
Soto Bang Amat – The Best Breakfast in Banjarmasin
Along the Martapura River, on the way back to the Siring jetty, we stopped by at the most famous Soto Banjar restaurant known as Soto Bang Amat. Ichii ordered two bowls of Soto, the standard one for Ichii and the special one for me. The difference between the two is the latter had extra shredded chicken and hard boiled egg. The soup for the Soto was good with thick broth. Interestingly, the Banjarese ate their soto with sate ayam, skewered chicken chunk on a stick eaten with peanut sauce. It is also common for the Banjarese to mix the peanut sauce with thick soy sauce.
Soto Bang Amat should not be missed if you ever visit Lok Baintan Floating Market. A lovely end to our floating market trip.
If you need a tour around Banjarmasin or to Lok Baintan Floating Market, Ichii can be contacted at riskitiasari@gmail.com / +62 85950092530.
1 Comment
I have a plan to visit Borneo next month and still confusing to extend in Banjarmasin or not. Huaaa…
Nice pictures Farah. I love their smile 🙂