In the wealth of surviving built heritage, Penang offers the most candid street photography in Malaysia. This was my second year joining Georgetown Festival, in particular, Penang Heritage Photowalk 2014 which was organized by Caffa Asia and Photosafari. I had walked the streets of Georgetown countless times yet I never fail to discover new things from each visit.
Penang was part of the kingdom of Kedah and locally known as Pulau Kesatu and Pulo Pinang to voyagers since Admiral Cheng Ho in the early 15th century because Tamils came to trade in pinang (areca nut). It was once named Prince of Wales Island.
The settlement to be built on the north-eastern cape was named “George Town” after George III. The cape was formerly known as Tanjong Penaigre because of the hardy ironwood trees called penaga, which Light induced the original inhabitants and early settlers to clear by firing a caon full of coins into the forest. Locals still refer to George Town as Tanjung.
Chulia Street
Chulia Street is one of the most interesting street which has retained its multi-cultural character, traditional trades and crafts, antique architecture and living historic community.
Chulia Heritage Hotel
We stayed at Chulia Heritage Hotel which has been refurbished into a luxurious looking hotel. We paid RM125 for a triplet room with bathroom outside. I love the hotel as it is most convenient to reach the landmark areas in Penang.
Yeng Keng Hotel
Just over 200 meters away from Chulia Heritage and also a starting point for our 2 days Penang Heritage Photowalk was Yeng Keng Hotel. Yeng Keng is the old name for Peking. In the old days, the hotel catered to travelling tradesmen who came out to Penang in large numbers during China’s turbulent period.
Hong Kong Bar
One of the night spots frequented by sailors who come into town.
To read more about Chulia Street : Cherita Lebuh Chulia
Cheapside Street
The narrow alley off Chulia Street is named after London’s flea market area of the same name. However, the local version only specialises in hardwares and locks.
Campbell Street
Further down from Chulia Street, the five-foot alley would lead to Lebuh Campbell. The Chinese called Campbell Street Sin Kay because it was a “new street” created between Pit Street and Penang Road in the mid 19-th century. However, Sin Kay carried a double meaning that referred to “fresh prostitutes” brought in from China to fill the courtesans quarters along the street.
The Malay name Jalan Nona Baru was also used to describe the Campbell Street which was a traditional red light district flourished until the war. The houses of worldly pleasure were identified by red lanterns hung at the door.
Campbell Street Market
The Campbell Street Market was built on part of the former Kapitan Kling Mosque burial ground. The Malays referred to the market site as Hutan Mayat.
Muntri Street
Muntri Street is related to the Malay word of “Muntri” or “Menteri”. There is a theory that Muntri Street was named after the famous Mantri of Larut Ngah Ibrahim son of Long Ja’afar. Muntri Street was an elite Chinese residential area where one could find many Cantonese associations and guilds.
One of the residential shophouses at Jalan Muntri
Muntri House has been transformed into chic backpackers hostel while retaining its heritage values.
Muntri Street is historically associated with the traditional black and white nannies with white top and black silk trousers. They are called Mahcheh, a group of very professional and reliable maids who were able to work in the European colonial officials families and wealthy Chinese families.
Love Lane
There are many theories about the origin of the name “Love Lane”. Some says this was where the sailors met the island’s ladies among the bamboo groves. The local Chinese say the rich men who lived in Muntri Street kept their mistresses here, hence the name Ai Cheng Hang. Meanwhile according to the Shia Muslims among the North Indian sepoys and convicts, it was during the Muharram festival that the Shis Muslims staged processions to commemorate the violent death of Ali, the son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad and Ali’s two sons Hassan and Hussin.
Leith Street
Leith Street used to be lined with palm tress and known as Nyior Chabang before it became “Hakka Millionaire’s Row”. Cheong Fatt Tze was foremost among the Hakka towkays who lived down the street.
Cathay Hotel
It is located at No. 15, Leith Street. A historical colonial bungalow was a mansion of a local Chinese towkay Yeoh Wee Gark who was part of a syndicate of Hokkien tycoons controlling opium importation into the Straits Settlement through Penang Opium & Spirit Farm.
The Cathay Hotel is an example of a distinct architecture style popular in the Straits Settlement known as “Straits Eclectic”. With Anglo-Indian architecture, the classical pediments, porticos and columns, Italianate stucco ornamentation and Chinese detailing were added in. It was developed due to the western-educated Chinese tycoons opting for more western tastes and ostentatious homes.
(to be continue – Penang Heritage Photowalk 2014 – Part 2)