Although Sanliurfa is out of the tourist trail, it is famous among Muslims as a sacred city where Muslims come to pay homage to the historical sites in Sanliurfa. The most visited one was Balikligol complex which houses Mevlid-I-Cave, I-Cami, Halil-Ul-Rahman and Urfa Castle.
I could not help but notice the purple clad head scarf worn by the locals, men and women alike in Sanliurfa. Foreign traveller was very hard to come by. After spending half a day in Sanliurfa, I had not met even one foreign traveller in Sanliurfa.
As I walked into the Balikligol complex, there was Hassan Pasa Cami Sherif at the entrance of Balikligol complex.
Located at the forefront of the Balikligol was the tourist information centre. On approaching, I was given a map and invited to enter the centre for a cup of Turkish tea. It was the beginning of tea drinking affair around old town of Sanliurfa that afternoon. I was offered a cup of tea as I refused to buy clothes from three of the many clothing shops lining the main road. Peeping into glass window of a bakery selling pide firini, flat breads, specialty of Southern Anatolia, I was invited in and enjoyed a cup of tea while watching the pretty men and boys working on the dough.
The Tourist Attractions & Map of Sanliurfa
If you are planning to visit Sanliurfa and other sites around Sanliurfa, let you be forewarned that it is hard to find reliable sources on the internet. Even on the ground, you either have to drive or engage a private tour to cover all the tourist attractions. I was lucky enough to be joining three backpackers on a joy ride around Sanliurfa.
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Sanliurfa, Prophet Ibrahim &…
At the entrance of Sanliurfa lies a huge book spread open…
It reads, “Abraham, peace be upon him, the father of prophets taught people that the stars were only stars; the moon only the moon, the sun only the sun; and that the king Nemrud was only a human being who had been created by Allah the mighty and the merciful a few thousand years ago in order to destroy the truth of wisdom and love which were embodied in Abraham’s existence. A fire the likes of which had never been seen was started right here…”
To appreciate Sanliurfa, it is inevitable to read on the Islamic history of Prophet Ibrahim.
Mevlid-I-Halil Cave – Where Prophet Ibrahim was born
Mevlid I-Halil Cave was where Prophet Ibrahim was born. Prophet Ibrahim was born in the midst of humankind who worshipped the idols made of carved stones. They bowed and prayed before the idols as if they were gods. The King of Babylonia, Nemrut was once informed by his astrologers that someone was going to be born who would destroy his kindom. He would teach people another religious concept; worshipping none but only one God.
Thereafter, Nemrut gave order that no women in his kingdom would conceive and if any child was born, it would be killed immediately. Soon, the mother of Prophet Ibrahim got pregnant and by the will of Allah, no sign to be seen was seen. When it was time for her to deliver the baby, she went to a Mevlid I-Halil Cave and gave birth to Prophet Ibrahim.
She left Prophet Ibrahim to fend for himself in the cave, so nobody knew what was happening. He was suckling the milk which flowed of his fingers. From time to time, his mother would come secretly to the cave to watch him. He became a hidden child for 13 years.
The water found in Mevlid I-Halil Cave is believed to be curative.
Prophet Ibrahim’s Search for the Truth
When Prophet Ibrahim came out of the cave for the first time, the sun was setting and the night drew dark. It was then he saw a star and said, “Is this my Lord?”. When the star set, he said, I love not the setting ones.” Then when he saw the moon rising, he said, “Is this my Lord?”. But when it set too, he said, “If my Lord had not guided me I would have certainly been among the mistaken ones”. Then he saw a sun rising said, “Is this my Lord? Is this the greatest?”.
But when the sun set he said: “O my people I am free from all that you join as partners with Allah! I have turned my face towards Him Who created the heavens and the earth, and never shall I give partners to Allah.” Our Lord is the Creator of the heavens and the earth and everything. He has the power to make the stars rise and set. Prophet Ibrahim then heard Allah calling him: “O Ibrahim!” Prophet Ibrahim said trembling: “Here I am O my Lord!” “Submit to Me! Be a Muslim!” Prophet Ibrahim fell on the ground, prostrating and crying, he said: “I submit to the Lord of the universe!” Ibrahim kept prostrating until night came again. He got up and went back to his home, in t peace, full of conviction that Allah has guided him to the Truth.
Mevlid-I-Halil Camii / Mevlid I-Halil Mosque
It was located next to the Mevlid I-Halil Cave. It was primarily built as a pagan temple, converted into a synagogue and then church. Finally in 1523, it was turned into a mosque by an Ottoman general by the name of Muhammad Salih Pasha.
Halil-Ur Rahman Lake (Balikli Gol/Fish Lake)
When Prophet Ibrahim refused the pagan divinity of the king of Urfa, Nemrud bin Kanan and broke the idols adored by the people under the rule of Nemrud, Nemrud ordered all available firewood in the forest be collected and be heaped up in one open place to burn Prophet Ibrahim.
Lalu ia memecahkan semuanya berketul-ketul, kecuali sebuah berhala yang besar, supaya mereka kembali kepadanya. (Al-Quran 21: 58)
Mereka bertanya: Siapakah yang melakukan perbuatan yang demikian terhadap tuhan-tuhan kami? Sesungguhnya adalah ia dari orang yang zalim. (Al-Quran 21:59)
Setengah dari mereka berkata: Kami ada mendengar seorang anak muda bernama Ibrahim, mencacinya. (Al-Quran: 21:60)
Ketua-ketua mereka berkata: Jika demikian, bawalah dia di hadapan orang ramai supaya mereka menyaksikan tindakan mengenainya. (Al-Quran 21:61)
Setelah dia dibawa ke situ mereka bertanya: Engkaukah yang melakukan demikian kepada tuhan-tuhan kami, hai Ibrahim (Al-Quran 21:62)
Dia menjawab : Bahkan yang melakukannya ialah yang besar di antara mereka ini! Maka kamu bertanyalah kepada mereka kalau mereka dapat berkata-kata. (Al-Quran 21:63)
Maka mereka kembali kepada diri mereka lalu berkata sesama sendiri: Sesungguhnya kamulah sendiri orang yang zalim (Al-Quran 21:64)
Kemudian tertunduk kepala mereka, lalu berkata: Sesungguhnya engkau telah tahu bahawa berhala-berhala itu tidak dapat berkata-kata (Al-Quran 21:65)
… Ketua-ketua mereka berkata: Bakarlah dia dan belalah tuhan-tuhan kamu, jika betul kamu mahu bertindak membelanya! (Al-Quran 21:68)
Kami berfirman: Hai api, jadilah engkau sejuk serta selamat sejahtera kepada Ibrahim. (Al-Quran 21:69)
It was said that Prophet Ibrahim was thrown into the flames where Balikli Gol is situated today from Damlacik Mountain, which is now known as Urfa fortresses. After the command from Allah as in Al-Quran 21:68, the fire cooled down and became peaceful with Prophet Ibrahim. According to the legend, the fire turned into water and the woods, fishes. Then it formed a lake at the exact point where Prophet Ibrahim fell down and the surrounding of the lake was turned into rose garden.
Aynzeliha Lake
Not far from Balikli Gol, there is a small lake known as Aynzeliha Lake. The history behind AynZeliha Lake could be traced to the history relating to Prophet Ibrahim. Zeliha was the daughter of the king of Urfa named Nemrud. When she dreamt the miracle of Prophet Ibrahim that he survived from the fire, she accepted Prophet Ibrahim’s invitation to Islam. She expressed her denial towards paganism on her father’s face. Nemrud threw his own daughter to the flames of the huge fire and watched her death proudly. According to the legend, at the point where zeliha was thrown into the fire, there formed a lake which is now known as Aynzeliha Lake.
Urfa Fortresses
Diyarbakir girls – Aynur and her friends who joined me walking up to Urfa Fortresses and invited me to stay with them in Diyarbakir.